Things to Do in Nong Khai in August

August rains keep water levels good for the 2-hour sunset runs that start from Nong Khai's old customs pier. The boat captains time departures for 5 pm, just late enough to miss the afternoon storm but early enough to catch the golden hour when the sun breaks through post-rain clouds. You'll smell charcoal smoke drifting from the onboard grills while Lao pop music competes with the engine noise.

When the 11 am storm hits, locals migrate to the covered 1905 market hall where 70-year-old aunties still hand-pound som tam to order. The corrugated tin roof turns rain into white noise while you taste fermented Mekong fish pla ra that most tourists never encounter. August is when vendors unload the first batch of rainy-season mushrooms from the Phu Phra Bat hills.

The 18 km (11.2-mile) riverside route to this meditation temple works in August because you leave at dawn when humidity is still tolerable and the storm hasn't rolled in yet. Monks sweep rain-slicked temple steps while you lock bikes under the sala's eaves, the same spot where locals wait out cloudbursts with iced cha yen. Afternoon return rides are impossible due to lightning risk.

The 25-meter-tall concrete Buddha at Sala Kaew Ku looks like it's emerging from storm clouds when photographed in August's post-rain light. Steel sculptures take on a dark sheen when wet, and the lack of tour groups means you'll have the place to yourself except for the resident dogs who've learned rain equals empty snack wrappers. The mud between sculptures is ankle-deep, bring flip-flops.